Venue Magazine - Bristol and Bath's Magazine  
Eating Out West 2009
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French

 

Bristol

BISTRO LA BARRIQUE
225 Gloucester Rd, BS8 7NR
Tel: 0117 944 5500, web: www.bistrolabarrique.co.uk

‘Comfortable and classy, with a welcoming feel,’ said our review of celeb chef Michel Lemoine’s charming urban bistro, complete with its lovely alfresco area out front. The people-pleasing menus largely consist of a wide range of ‘petits plats’ – French-style tapas, if you will – and a rounded selection of accompanying dishes, while those in need of blow-out sustenance can look to the daily specials board for their own big plate (£9.95-£14.95). Still, four to six PPs should suffice for a solid meal for two, while those who can’t resist a little nibble can graze to their heart’s content. Now open in Bath, too. Menu (petits plats) duck confit with creamed julienne of vegetables & orange sauce; braised pork belly with sautéed savoy cabbage and cumin; pave of grilled mediterranean vegetables, basil and virgin olive oil; bean cassoulet with onions, tomato and parsley; mussel & saffron chowder; terrine of the day with pickles; seafood pancake; crab, salmon & parma ham terrine with sauce vierge. Sides: potato gratin; haricots verts; tomato, shallot, basil & virgin olive oil salad. Specials/puds: sturdy, French-themed/Brit-trad classics Price ALC: petits plats from £4.95; M: from £9.95/P: approx £5. Lunch special: two petit plats £8.95 (weekdays) Wine list Extensive. HW from approx £13 btl. Excellent range of liqueurs, brandies, etc Open Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm, Sat 11.30am-10pm, Sun 11.30am-2.30pm. Children welcome. Disabled access. Major credit cards. Adv booking advised. Parties catered for.


NEW
BRASSERIE BLANC

Quakers Friars, Cabot Circus, BS1 3BF
Tel: 0117 910 2410, web: www.brasserieblanc.com

Raymond Blanc’s eighth brasserie has been cooking up a storm since opening in September 2008 and has fast become a favourite among Bristol’s foodies. Set within the magnificent grade l-listed Friary buildings at the centre of the piazza, the 140-seat restaurant offers a relaxed, stylish interior with banquette seating and a terrace for dining or coffees during warmer months. The menu features French classic and modern dishes made with fresh, local and seasonal produce at decent prices. Expect the likes of smoked pepper gazpacho soup, crispy St Loup goat’s cheese with tomato chutney, open ravioli of poached egg, spinach and parmesan, spring rack of Cornish lamb and Raymond’s renowned salmon & smoked haddock fishcakes. Wines are predominantly French, sourced directly from selected vineyards to complement the food. A special Dine with Wine menu (lunch: 2 £11.50, dinner: £15 and glass of wine) available. Menu S: parsnip soup with honey & lemon dressing; smoked ham hock & pea risotto; onion tart with mustard dressing. M: pork & black pepper sausage with puree potatoes; fillet of gurnard with bouillabaisse sauce and olive mash. P: poached rhubarb and savoy biscuit terrine; white chocolate & banana delice Price ALC: from £4.75/from £8.50/from £4.75 Wine list HW £13.75 btl, £3.60 gls Open Daily. Food served 12noon-2.45pm & 5.30-6.30pm (Sat-Sun 12noon-6.30pm). Dedicated kids’ menu. Good disabled access. All major credit cards. Can cater for large parties - phone to check.


CAFE ROUGE
Unit SU51A, Cabot Circus, BS1 3BD Tel: 0117 954 4808
85 Park St, BS1 5PJ Tel: 0117 929 2571, web: www.caferouge.co.uk

Lively, upmarket French-themed cafe-bar/brasserie/restaurant franchise serving high-quality food, from morning coffee and continental pastries right through until dinner. Huge menu to suit most tastes, alongside daily specials board, superb classic French delights (moules/steak frites, tarts, salads, etc), and an excellent bar. Mull over the morning papers with a cafe au lait and croissant, pop in for a spot of lunch, share a post-work drink or relax over an evening meal. Menu S: baked flat mushrooms filled with garlic & leaf spinach finished with melted raclette cheese; classic french onion soup finished with melted gruyere crouton. M: dordogne duck confit with orange liqueur sauce, french beans and dauphinoise potatoes; smoked toulouse sausages with new potato salad and thyme jus. P: traditional creme brulee; fondant au chocolat Price ALC: from £3.95/from £7.95/from £4.25. Prix fixe menu (9am-5pm, Mon-Fri): 2 £7.95, 3 £9.95 Wine list Good selection with strong emphasis on French. HW from approx £11 btl. Euro-beers & lagers, cocktails, liqueurs Open Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 10am-10.30pm. Children welcome. Disabled access - call ahead (Park St); Cabot Circus has excellent facilities including step-free access, accessible toilets, Braille and large-print menus. Major credit cards. Parties welcome - call ahead.


LA DEMI LUNE
Hotwell Rd, Hotwells, BS8 4RP
Tel: 0117 927 7112, web: www.demi-lune.co.uk

A full-on, gently gourmet bistro experience in exceedingly pleasant surroundings; the low lighting and candles, wood panelling and white linen cloths give the place a genuinely welcoming feel. One of that rare breed - a genuinely family-fun French restaurant serving up classic dishes with an added side portion of Gallic flair thrown in for good measure. Check blackboard for the daily changing specials. Menu S: seared scallops with rocket, ginger & dill dressing; chicken liver parfait. M: belly of pork with chive mash; cassoulet with confit of duck, pork and toulouse sausage. P: chocolate parfait; passion fruit & mango tart with white chocolate sauce Price ALC: from £5/from £13/from £5 Wine list HW £13.95 btl, £4 gls Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm, Sun 12noon-5pm. Children welcome. Disabled access possible – call in adv. Major credit cards. Parties – call in adv.


SQUARE
15 Berkeley Square, Clifton, BS8 1HB
Tel: 0117 921 0455, web: www.thesquareclub.com

Elegant and chic, with a dining room overlooking one of Clifton’s stunning Georgian squares. Designed to accommodate intimate dining for two, larger parties and everything in between, the emphasis is firmly fixed on quality cuisine of the highest order with the occasional foray into more exotic delicacies. New head chef David McGoff, raised and trained in Scotland, spread his wings to New Zealand where he established himself as a leading chef before heading the kitchen at the Picture House on Whiteladies Road and then heading off to The Square, where he’s set about making his mark with French bistro-inspired cooking and a passion for baking. With an elegant, candlelit setting and contemporary art, the dining room is open to the general public and hotel guests as well as serving the thriving private members Square Club. Menu S: duck liver parfait with sage & onion brioche and apple jelly; cauliflower veloute with cheddar, pancetta and tomato essence. M: grilled fillet of smoked haddock topped with welsh rarebit, with spring onion mash and sauce antiboise (provencal tomato sauce); fillet and blade of beef with roast salsify, celeriac puree and dripping toast. P: drambouie pannacotta with shortbread and raspberries; fresh orange creme brulee with a hot chocolate shot Price ALC: from £4.50/from £13.95/from £4.95 Wine list Extensive. HW from £16.50 btl, £4.90 gls. Beers & lagers, champagnes, cocktails, digestifs, aperitifs Open Tue-Sat 12noon-5pm, Mon-Sun 6-11pm. Disabled access – call ahead. Major credit cards. Parties - call ahead.

 

Bath

NEW
BISTRO LA BARRIQUE

31 Barton St, BA1 1HG
Tel: 01225 463861, web: www.bistrolabarrique.co.uk

Chef Michel Lemoine secured his reputation for serving well-priced, easygoing rustic Mediterranean dishes at Bath’s popular No.5 Bistro years ago, before going on to take his unique ‘petits plats’ menus to Bristolians at the original incarnation of Bistro La Barrique. At last, he’s brought the Bistro to Bath. Venue’s own little cochon translated the ‘little plates’ that summarise La Barrique’s USP thus: ‘One could liken the menu – made up of a comprehensive range of dishes all fluctuating around the £5 mark – to a tapas selection. But Lemoine’s inspirations come more from the classic French bistro experience than that of the bustling Spanish bar, and an emphasis on confits, tatins, rillettes and balotines confirms such foundations: proper French food with a seriously hedonistic flourish.’ Most of the extensive wine list is available by the glass, while smart but cheerful, distinctly welcoming surroundings (including pavement seating out front and an absolutely gorgeous walled garden to the rear) encourage you to linger rather than dash. Menu Petits plats: bean cassoulet; reblechon, creme fraiche & thyme tartes fines; grilled garlic prawns with saffron risotto; duck confit with garlic sauteed potatoes; slow-cooked beef with paprika and soured cream. Side dishes: creamed spinach with nutmeg; haricots verts with garlic butter. P: chocolate st emilion; raspberry savarin Price petits plats from £4.25, side dishes from £1.95. P: from £4.25. SL (Mon-Fri): 2 petits plats plus one side dish £8.95 Wine list Intelligent selection. HW approx £14 btl, £3.80 gls Open Mon-Fri 12noon-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm, Sat 12noon-10.30pm. Children welcome. Disabled access. Major credit cards. Large parties welcome - call in adv.


BISTRO PAPILLON
2 Margarets Buildings, BA1 2LP
Tel: 01225 310064, web: www.bistropapillon.co.uk

Typically French bistro with menu and Gallic charm to match, offering affordable food in a relaxed atmosphere, with Mediterranean-style decor inside and alfresco tables on the traffic-free street out front. Daily specials are prepared in an open kitchen on the ground floor, sending heavenly aromas around the block; a little corner of Aix en Provence in Bath. Menu S: chicken liver & armagnac pate with toasted brioche and gooseberry chutney; crottin goat’s cheese salad with walnuts and raspberry dressing. M: roasted magret of duck with gratin dauphinoise and tarragon sauce; grilled sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce with pommes frites and provencal tomato. P: pear & cointreau creme brulee; warm apple tarte normande with clotted-cream ice cream Price ALC: from £4.50/from £12.95/from £5.20. SL: 2 £9.50 Wine list Small but carefully considered. HW from £11.95 btl, £3.20 gls Open Tue-Sat 12noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm. Children welcome – children’s portions, highchairs, booster seats. Disabled access, but not to toilet. Major credit cards. Room for private hire, up to 24. Parties of 20+ welcome.


BRASSERIE GERARD
The Empire, Grand Parade, BA2 4DF
Tel: 01225 461140, web: www.brasseriechezgerard.co.uk

Part of a UK-wide franchise specialising in all-day dining in bright and breezy surroundings, offering Franglais menus that promise ‘the best steak-frites this side of Paris’ while acknowledging the influence that Moroccan cookery brings to French brasserie kitchens. Visit website for regularly updated offers. Menu S: soupe a l’oignon; pork paté terrine with baguette and pickled gherkins. M: steak-frites; boeuf bourgignon; lamb tagine. P: creme brulee; tarte au citron Price ALD: from £3.95/from £7.95/from £3.65. Plat du jour £11.95. Prix fixe: 2 £11.50, 3 £14.50 Wine list HW £12.95 btl £3.25/£4.65gls, £8.95 500ml carafe Open Mon-Thur 10am-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 10am-11pm, Sun 10am-10.30pm. Children welcome. Disabled access. Major credit cards. Parties welcome - call in adv.


CAFE ROUGE
15 Milsom St, BA1 1DE
Tel: 01225 462368, web: www.caferouge.co.uk

Lively, upmarket French-themed cafe-bar/brasserie/restaurant franchise. Menu/Price/Wine list See Bristol listing Open Mon-Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 10am-10.30pm. Children welcome. Disabled access. Major credit cards. Parties welcome - call ahead.


CASANIS
4 Saville Row, BA1 2QP
Tel: 01225 780055, web: www.casanis.co.uk

Mini-oasis of Gallic delight tucked away on one of the prettiest lanes in Bath, with a kitchen headed up by a real French chef with impeccable credentials and a pretty little alfresco area out back. Venue’s petit cochon ‘took a seat at a simply dressed farmhouse table while a sexy Frenchman crooned softly through subtly placed speakers and a seductive aroma of real homecooking wafted all around’, before going on to enjoy ‘quintessentially French dishes, at once elegant and robust’ and declaring that ‘authentic southern French cooking has come to Bath’. Menu S: ravioli stuffed with snails, mushrooms and spinach in garlic & white wine sauce; pate de campagne with pear & raisin compote, mixed green salad, balsamic & port glaze and toasted bread. M: slow-cooked confit leg of duck with gratin dauphinoise potatoes, lentil & bacon ragout and red wine jus; roasted lamb chump with white beans & vegetable ragout, pumpkin & garlic ravioli and herb jus. P: soft chocolate cake with raisins and chocolate sauce; tarte au citron Price ALC: from £5.95/from £11.50/from £5.50 SL: 2 £11.50, 3 £15. SD: (6-7pm): 2 £16, 3 £20 Wine list Well chosen, predominantly French. HW approx £14 btl Open Tue-Sat 12noon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm. Children welcome. Wheelchair accessible. Major credit cards. Private parties welcome – call for details.


LE FLAMMA
Edgar Buildings, George St, BA1 2EE
Tel: 01225 443900, web: www.leflamma.co.uk

Stylish but friendly contemporary brasserie/champagne bar specialising in flammakeuchen: a traditional Alsace tarte flambee, consisting of a thin French pastry base smothered with fromage blanc, cream, eggs, spices and seasoning, topped with a variety of ingredients (the Turckheim, for example, comes topped with sauteed spinach, basil, sliced ripe tomatoes and ricotta; the Strasbourg with chicken, sundried tomatoes, peppers and onion). But if those tasty tarts don’t get you, the evening a la carte menu will: sturdy French classics, all complemented by an exceedingly well considered wine list and properly exciting cocktails. Flammakeuchen are available all day/eve (alongside omelettes, salads, etc, at lunchtime), with the ALC menu available from 6pm. Menu soupe a l’oignon; asparagus shortcrust tart topped with gruyere and emmenthal cheeses. M: slow-cooked beef casserole with lardons, mushrooms, shallots & carrots; poached salmon in white wine & chive sauce, with timbale of rice). P: creme brulee; sweet flamma with strawberries or apples Price ALC: from £5.25/from £10.95/from £4.95. Flammakeuchen from £5.95 Wine list Extensive, stylish, well sourced (inc a range of Alsace wines, uniquely imported from the family vineyard in Gueberschwihr). Champagnes, lagers & beers, spirits, cocktails. HW £11.95 btl. Cocktails from £5. 2-4-1 Happy Hour deals Open Mon-Sat 10am-11.30pm. All-day menu from 11am, ALC dinner from 6pm. Children welcome. Disabled access. Major credit cards. Parties, functions, events welcome – call in adv.


NO.5
5 Argyle St, BA2 4BA
Tel: 01225 444499, web: www.no5restaurant.co.uk

This understatedly elegant French bistro is one of Bath’s most amiable, easygoing diners, serving well-mannered Medi-themed grub in light-hearted surroundings that easily adapt to either girls’ nights out or intimate canoodling. Michel (Bistro La Barrique) Lemoine may have recently passed the reins over to Richard and Carol de Cesare, but the dynamic duo vow that the spirit of No.5 will live on. Menu S: homecured salmon with creme fraiche, lemon, mixed leaves; glazed scallops with buttered leek & saffron sabayon. M: roast chicken breast wrapped in pancetta, filled with spinach and ricotta cheese; grilled rib of beef for two with bay leaves, shallots, red wine sauce. P: breton apple tart; fondant au chocolat Price ALC: from £6.50/from £13.95/from £5.25. SL: 2 £8.95. SD: 2 £18.95, 3 £24.50 Wine list Thoughtful, extensive. HW £12.95 btl Open Daily 12noon-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Children welcome, some half-portions available. Disabled access, but not to toilet. Major credit cards (not Diner’s).

 


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